Review: Brasserie by Niche . STL

My love of the restaurant Niche is no secret on this blog - two posts (here and here) have gushed about the tasting menu lineup. A sister restaurant, Brasserie by Niche, has opened and we have heard nothing but good things from critics and friends alike. This weekend we found ourselves in the neighborhood (Central West End) and decided to stop in for Sunday brunch.


[photo nabbed off the Brasserie website]
Ambiance.
In the full light of day, the restaurant seems adequately appointed as a french brasserie in the heart of an American city. The tablecloths are a red checker pattern and fresh brown paper sits atop every table. The walls are a collection of colors painted in faux techniques and generic oversize foreign posters line the wall. I imagine by night the place feels wonderfully cozy and intimate. Our party of 2 was wedged between two other tables of seated couples - a proximity a little too close for our (and I would venture to say most Americans') comfort. Despite other open tables down the line, it just seemed like an unspoken etiquette was being broken - like choosing the middle urinal in the men's bathroom (or so I am told). Luckily, both tables were wrapping up their meals and just after ordering we had the stretch of tables to ourselves. We are selfish that way.

Short and sweet. Very sweet.
We went during Sunday brunch and the menu was concise, but very accommodating. The menu covered brunch from beignets to the house burger, a few a-la-carte side options, 3 fresh squeezed juices and a healthy list of early morning liquid revelry (alcoholic beverages). This menu seemed to sum up what every restaurant makeover show drills over and over: keep the menu small, focused and good. So far, so good.

The taste test
I settled upon the brioche french toast with lemon curd - usually something I would never select, but the lemon curd captured my attention - while Daniel chose the eggs en cocotte (remembered at writing as eggs...en...something, we are such foodies). For drinks, I ordered a tomato juice and Daniel bellied up to the drink of the day: the Parker Posey, a concoction that consisted of guava juice, raspberry brandy, champagne, and rum. The food arrived quickly and was quite delicious. The french toast was delectably crisp on the outside/soft on the inside and the lemon curd lightened the dish up quite a bit. Daniel's eggs en cocotte was decadent and hearty, balancing the fruity, but fairly stiff morning cocktail nicely. After plunging into our plates and eagerly sharing a bite with each other we knew a new breakfast spot had been discovered.